Tuesday, March 1, 2022

Key Largo to Great Harbour Cay, Bahamas

 Meet Jerry! This is Joey’s friend and Joey is our grandson, Xander’s pet bearded dragon.

Jerry hangs out just behind Samba on warm days. He doesn’t move very fast but seems to be at home here.


It’s been windy here all week but our marina, though pretty low budget, is safe.


Through this week, we completed a number of boat projects. Since the marina’s washer was $9.00 per load and the dryer was similar, Carol used the washer on board Samba to do several loads of laundry.

Our dryer wouldn’t get hot enough to dry so she hung the laundry out to dry the old-fashioned way.

A local fuel truck came to the marina to fill up a smaller fishing boat so we took advantage of him to top our tanks off before making the jump to the Bahamas.


When we arrived last Saturday, we paid to stay in the marina until Friday. They ONLY take cash or checks and the daily rate was ridiculously high, especially for what they offered – gravel parking and a sleazy restroom we had to walk a block to get to.

At the time of our arrival, it looked like our only chance to cross to the Bahamas would be on Saturday.  That, of course, changed during the week. Rather than use our last check to extend our stay, we opted to leave and wait for the weather while anchored off Rodriguez Key, just a mile away.

The Bahamas requires a COVID rapid test within 3 days of arriving at port so we biked 3.5 miles to the nearest clinic & got our tests Friday morning. Friday afternoon, the tide was finally high enough we could leave the marina at 3:30 – this was an event we were both dreading.

The marina is so small that the “turning basin” was too tight for us to turn in without hitting someone. Jim stepped it off and determined it was not possible for us to simply turn to leave. Argghhh - - NOTHING is EVER easy!

Come time to leave, the wind was up so we had another boater hold our bow line tight as we gently swiveled on it until we could slither into the exit canal. Fortunately, we didn’t hit anyone and we didn’t touch bottom, though the depth gauge did read less than 1 foot of clearance several times. All the extra fuel we added made us sit pretty low in the water!

Sunset off of Rodriguez Key


Saturday, 2/26,2022

Though this was supposed to be our crossing day, the tiny weather window was now moved to mid-morning, Sunday so we puttered around all day.

Sunday morning dawned clear and . . . windy – of course.

Our weather router had told us to expect the winds to change from 15 knots to below 10 sometime around 10:00 so we decided to take a chance. As an extra precaution, we both took Dramamine the night before - - just in case (good thing, too!).

We left at 8:00, knowing we would be hitting the Gulf Stream at 10:00.

Well, guess what? We hit the Stream at 10:00 and the wind was still 15 knots and we were battling 3 to 5 foot seas on the nose. It was uuugggllly!

It was pretty much 6 hours of nastiness. The rocking was bad enough that we hated to leave our flying bridge nav station. It was just too difficult to hang on to go anywhere else in the boat.

At one point, we had a frolicking head of cabbage doing a little dance in the pilot house. The refrigerator had pulled 3 mounting screws loose and was doing its own 2-step dance. Slide forward; slide backward; open door; repeat.

We temporarily secured the fridge with towels and blue tape and went back to the top.

Finally, 6 hours into our 8 hour trip, the wind began its long-awaited abatement. Woo hoo!

As the seas calmed down, we had a fish strike.


It was a nice little 17 inch tuna!

As Jim was moving him over to the corner to sedate him, he was spraying blood all over everything!


A dose of vodka in the gills tamed him right down.

Though he wasn’t all that big, he provided some nice tuna steaks. Also, the fresh sushi was good!

At long last, with the winds light and variable, our destination, South Riding Rock came into view. Thank you, Lord!



The notes Jim had read indicated that we should be able to find decent holding for our anchor here and it would provide a modicum of protection from easterly winds.

NOT!

We tried anchoring in 2 different spots here. Each time, Jim went in to check the anchor and each time, it was scoured bottom rock with no place for the anchor to grab. Ughhh.

There was a decent-sized barracuda that was watching Jim closely. Jim also had a large sea turtle that was checking him out as he was checking out the anchor.

With such a scoured bottom, we upped the anchor and headed a couple of miles further north to another “anchorage”. There was what appeared to be a local or maybe Cuban fishing boat anchored there.

It was no better, even after trying 2 different places and diving on the anchor each time. It was nearly dark and the winds were quite light and were forecast to remain that way into the next afternoon.

Soooo, we did something we have never done before in our lives! In 30 feet deep water, we let the anchor just lay on the bottom with 150 feet of heavy chain. We hoped the chain would help hold the boat in place. We realllly did not want to drag into the rocks tonight!

Jim set his alarm and was up every hour and a half to check on the anchor - - all night.

Though the boat swiveled around the chain with the tides, it didn’t wander far. Thank you, Lord! Had it been a safety issue, we would have hauled in the chain and headed onto the shallow Bahamas Banks for our 80-mile trip to our next anchorage!

Monday, 2/28/2022

The day dawned hazy with a foreboding sense of high humidity and no wind so we left at 6:30 which was as soon as we could see the anchor chain.


Calm water - - we like calm water, especially when it lasts all day! PTL!



The water was calm and flat enough, we made better time than we had anticipated. Woo hoo!

We always know we’re getting close to Great Harbour Cay as we have to pass by Coco Cay, a cruise ship private-island playground. Notice the hot air balloon ride underway.

The entrance to Great Harbour is through a tight little cut in the rock.



The marina, though older, is safe, clean, and well-protected from just about any winds.

We broke out the champagne to celebrate our much-anticipated arrival to the Bahamas!

At this point, we’re uncertain what our next steps will be or what the timing will be. We’ll be sure to let you know when we know.

Have a great rest of your day!